Thursday, November 29, 2007

I have a dog. His name is Timmy.

Life is hard to understand. As I venture out of the cozy hole I’ve been hiding in all my life, it becomes even more difficult to make sense of things that go on. Do you ever wonder why you believe the things you do? Why we follow certain traditions and rituals without ever questioning the reasoning behind them?

Ever wonder why we celebrate Thanksgiving?

Last week the Peace Corps volunteers from the Santa Cruz department got together to celebrate Thanksgiving. I was to be gone for a few days and told my counterparts that I would be out for the holiday. And they asked me to explain what exactly we were celebrating. Now in the context of being a Peace Corps volunteer in Bolivia, where the first indigenous president ever is currently in office, where all our projects center around empowering the indigenous community, in preserving their lands, honoring their traditions, learning their languages, and developing a feeling of solidarity- imagine the contradiction it was to tell them that Thanksgiving celebrates the first toast between the Pilgrims and Indians, the first gesture of friendship right before the white man proceeded to take away all their land and put them all on reservations. The celebration of the beginning of the end for the indigenous in North America. With that in mind, did I really even want to celebrate this notion of Thanksgiving? Is there even a politically correct way of explaining this to my indigenous friends here?

Add it to the list of contradictions that I now call life. I did in the end celebrate Thanksgiving, but it is interesting even with all the tumultuous feelings that result, that I have the awareness now to even think the thoughts that I do. It is refreshing to know that I have at least taken one step out of my idyllic existence to attempt to understand the realities of our world.

A peek at my Thanksgiving… It was a pool party in 100 degree weather with a buffet that did include turkey for dinner. It does not feel like the holidays, but if I can’t be with family and friends, I guess this will do.






On a completely different note, I just read an amazing book called “Whispering in the Giant’s Ear” by William Powers. On a scale of 1-5, it is a 6 as far as how highly I recommend it. Published in 2006, it is an easy read written in a style much like my blog. It explains the challenges and struggles facing the currently country- political problems, indigenous rights, fights against globalization, East vs. West, rich vs. poor, etc etc. It’s a great summary of everything going on. The author actually lived here in Samaipata for awhile and it does talk a little of my site, (though not too positively, so please don’t get scared), as well as the nature conservation projects very similar to what I am working on. If you’d at all like to understand my life here, please read this book!

In related news, the constitution of Bolivia is being rewritten. The former deadline has already passed and the new deadline is by the end of the year. One of the major issues to be decided upon is whether the capital will remain in La Paz or if it will move to Sucre. As such, there have been protests (relatively non-violent) in Sucre and Peace Corps was put on alert. Yesterday there was a country wide strike where everyone shut down. You will have to look for the nitty gritty details online but out in Sucre tear gas was invoked after tires were burned and dogs were beheaded. But let me reiterate (Dad)… I AM COMPLETELY SAFE!!!

Wednesday, November 14, 2007

New Number, New Address

Hi All,

My phone number has changed. You may now dial 011-591-726-89477.

New Address:

Tammy Truong
Cuerpo de Paz
Casilla 3998
Santa Cruz, Bolivia
Sud America

Just a reminder... All packages MUST be under 4 lbs to pass customs without me paying more on my end, regardless of how much it costs to send. If you send it in a padded envelope customs will let it go, if it is in a box they will open no matter what size and it takes longer. On average, mail takes 2-3 wks to get here so you may start sending Christmas cards and packages now!!! ;)

Monday, November 12, 2007

Lessons From the Marketplace

“Expect the Unexpected.” What? No, I don’t know how to do that. “Have no expectations.” I don’t know how to do that either. It’s so funny, how you take things for granted and don’t realize that you have a set level of expectations about things. I remember during my staging event in DC, before I came to Bolivia, and they asked us what the most important thing to integration within a new culture would be. The options were something like Communication, Acceptance by the new community, Understanding the new culture, and Understanding your own culture. I don’t know which you picked, but I did not pick the right answer- understanding your own culture. I am now starting to get a better grasp of what it is. I did grow up in a mix of cultures- Vietnamese and American- but I am finding that there are many things about me that are strictly American.

Let’s return to the expectations topic. It’s reasonable I think, to expect that when you buy a three-piece speaker set that all three pieces will work, right? Or that if you buy a brand new phone, after running around for a week because every single shop is closed for the holiday, and then for the weekend, and then because they don’t feel like opening yet, that you could expect the charger to work, right? Or that when you sit down at a restaurant and open the menu, the things listed would be available. Or at the very least, you could get your second choice. But no, I’m not talking third choice either; it falls to the fourth or fifth choice. Which is equal to saying that of what is on the menu, really only two items are available and they are just waiting until you decide you want one of the two.

Other expectations: I guess I never really thought about it, but I thought I knew food. For example, we all know what a zucchini is, right? I thought I did. I went to the market the other day after a week of not enough sleep, an overnight bus ride of 12 hrs, and then another 3 hr ride to my site. All I wanted was a little fruit, and maybe a little food to make a quick stir-fry. I decide to hit the market and at the first stand I see when I enter, the lady immediately pegs me as a tourist. She starts offering food, and pretty much anything she offered I bought. Onions? Yes. Garlic? Sure. It went on for awhile and she’s laughing at me because I had taken Dramamine and didn’t really know what was going on. I explain to her that I just moved in that day and I was tired and couldn’t think straight, so I really appreciated all her help. She continues to offer me things and I continue to buy, up until she offers me a zucchini. And I look at her like she’s crazy and I’m like, “You have no zucchini here.” And she says, “Yes I do, here you go.” I look at what she hands me and I’m like, “I’m sorry, you handed me a squash.” “No, it’s zucchini.” “No…this is a SQUASH!” “No, it’s ZUCCHINI!” At this point I take a moment to inspect this thing I’m holding. If you added a little green, instead of the pale beige, and shrunk it by about half its size, then yes, I could imagine a zucchini. So I say, “Thanks! I love zucchini!”

Then I move to the next stand and look for a watermelon. I ask if the lady has watermelon and she looks at me strangely and points to a huge stack right in front of me of what looks exactly like honeydew, and says to me, “It’s right there.”

Then today I decide that I want to make some fresh lemonade. But Vietnamese make their lemonade from limes. So you would believe it, I go and ask for some lemons, not knowing the word for limes. I find that the limes look like lemons, lemons look like oranges, and oranges are actually mandarins. So if I want to buy a lime, it’s a “lima.” Or so I thought. I was so excited to make my limade and I go and squeeze all my limes, add sugar and water, and what I tasted when I was finished was a very bland orange juice.

There are many other things I am learning about my culture. We love gadgets. How do you make toast without a toaster? How do you reheat food with no microwave? I was pretty much resigned to eating fried rice the day after making rice, cause when I tried to heat it up in a pan, it turned into fried rice. It’s not like I’m a spoiled American (I don’t think), it’s just that I’ve never lived without a microwave! I sat totally perplexed for the entire day, wondering how I would ever heat up left-overs or if I would just have to learn to cook perfect portions. Fortunately, my mom calls that night and I start asking her the most ridiculous questions. Whilst laughing at me, she explains to me how to heat up food, how to make toaster, how to get rid of ants without repellent, and a host of other issues. Of course she has the answers, she grew up in Vietnam! How wonderful for me to have such a resource! Now I do not have to eat fried rice every day of my life!!!

Another point to contemplate- Do Americans realize how much we differentiate between products? How many types of toilet paper, toothpaste, shampoo, etc can exist? I didn’t realize I had been so desensitized to this aspect of life until the market. The market teaches me many things. You probably don’t want to hear about them all, but for my own amusement I will tell you about buying milk. You can then substitute milk with hand soap, or even clothes hangers and you will see how I myself make my life too difficult. All cause of this product differentiation that I never thought twice about.

The other day, I was in the market and needed milk. In the U.S. I am a skim milk drinker. I ask for milk and was handed whole milk. I ask, (because I have to ask, at least the first time) if perhaps, maybe, by chance there might be anything other than whole milk. So I ask the lady if she has milk with less fat. I’m not asking for skim, 2% or 1% would do. She looks at me smiling and says, “Yes, I have another milk.” And proceeds to hand me another bag of whole milk, albeit a different brand. I look at it and think, “This is whole milk as well.” At this point I am resigned to buying whole milk, and I look at the lady and say thanks and pay for the bag. I then proceed to another convenience store where I buy chocolate whole milk, because if I can’t have skim, I might as well make sure it tastes good!

P.S. If you haven’t tried whole milk in awhile, I recommend it. It’s actually quite delicious, especially heated up and with a bit of sugar added. Tastes just like the condensed milk mixed with hot water I used to drink as a kid when I watched my dad drink condensed milk with his coffee. But being too young for coffee, I got water instead. Oh, the memories Bolivia can bring back. And the new set of experiences that you never though you’d like, you now love.
I now also eat avocado, onions, and for a moment actually considered going vegetarian. It’s not hard when the meat you can buy comes with heads and livers intact, and they hang in the hot sun at the market. Yum.

Q: What does a Bolivian do when he has a three-prong plug and a two-prong outlet?

A: Grab the pliers and yank that pesky third prong out!!


Break out the noisemakers and party hats! As of Nov 1, 2007, I am an official Peace Corps Volunteer! Let the 24 month countdown begin! (That´s me at swear-in with the beloved Ambassador of the US.)

I still can’t decide if two years is a long time. Sometimes I look at it and think, “Two years is sophomore year in college. It wasn’t enough time to know anything.” Other times I remember that I only spent four months studying abroad, and I was more than ready to go home. I guess I am using the same mentality as when I ran a marathon. I have to focus on the here and now, and don’t look for the finish. Enjoy the ride. If I don’t, I’ll never survive.

I hope I don’t sound negative in my blog. There are so many things going on, so many new and strange experiences, so many frustrations that I really try to focus on the big picture. I just recount my trials and tribulations for the entertainment of family and friends, and so you can kind of get an idea of what life is like here on a day to day basis.

The last week of training we had a “commitment day.” It sounds pretty corny but I actually found it to be a rather poignant experience. All the trainees had to write a statement saying why we were committed to Peace Corps for two years and convince the country director that we should be sworn in as a volunteer. I’ll take a moment to what I scribbled down right before my name was called….


“My father was airlifted out of Vietnam when the government fell. The government burned his family’s papers. By a stroke of luck, he got to leave the country. The others in his family had no ID; they had no escape.

Growing up in the U.S., I have had all the opportunity I’ve ever wanted to create for myself, to do whatever I want in life. When I turn to look at my cousins in Vietnam and see the situation they live in, I feel the gap is just too large, too unexplainable. That easily could have been me. What did I ever do to be so lucky, to deserve so much?

The situation here in Bolivia, and in developing countries in general, is far too common and for me hits a little too close to home. If America is the land of opportunity where you can be what you want to be, I want to be a part of something larger than just me. So in the spirit of solidarity of those who do not have such freedoms, I have to fight. And that is why I am committed.”